Electrical Installations and Muffler Construction
Richard's Corvair
The Restoration of my 1960 Corvair
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Month 27
Since I used the original sending unit and the original base welded back into the new tank, I had to prepare a flat surface for the seal, than find a piece of hose the right size since the one I bought in the US was the wrong size. Here is the tank ready for installation.
I installed my electric fuel pump behind the floor support. After wiring I’ll make a protector plate to put under it. Then I replaced the gas lines with steel ones that were finally available, Putting a “T” right in front of the firewall. Here you can see the lines to the carburetors and the front engine seals I made earlier. It is installed with a cut-off switch that shuts it down when there is no oil pressure. When I need to run the pump without the engine on (prime the carbs) I put a key across the terminals to jump it.
Changing over from the generator to an alternator is not as easy on a 1960 as other models. I had to take the grinder to one of the thermostat bellows supports and touch up the paint.
I did not have an original muffler to copy, but since I had changed the grill to a 61 I needed to sent the exhaust out the side, so with my muffler fabricator we made the pieces, twisted them around in place until the angles and distances worked. Then welded everything together.
To finish off the engine compartment I added a layer of Dynamat Hoodliner to the firewall.
I also decided to convert my backup light installation to four stop/tail lights with halogen backup lights behind the grill. Each light has two bulbs, one directional and one distance. Here is the the original factory setup without backup lights, the first setup (as was a factory option in 1960) and the final installation.
The last picture is a night shot of the engine with 24 LED lights, activated by a contact switch when the hood is opened.
After starting the engine and setting the timing, I balanced the dual carburetors with this home-made low cost balancing tool. The carb that is pulling too much will suck the water out of one bottle into the next, but not enough to suck it into the engine.
I installed my electric fuel pump behind the floor support. After wiring I’ll make a protector plate to put under it. Then I replaced the gas lines with steel ones that were finally available, Putting a “T” right in front of the firewall. Here you can see the lines to the carburetors and the front engine seals I made earlier. It is installed with a cut-off switch that shuts it down when there is no oil pressure. When I need to run the pump without the engine on (prime the carbs) I put a key across the terminals to jump it.
Changing over from the generator to an alternator is not as easy on a 1960 as other models. I had to take the grinder to one of the thermostat bellows supports and touch up the paint.
I did not have an original muffler to copy, but since I had changed the grill to a 61 I needed to sent the exhaust out the side, so with my muffler fabricator we made the pieces, twisted them around in place until the angles and distances worked. Then welded everything together.
To finish off the engine compartment I added a layer of Dynamat Hoodliner to the firewall.
I also decided to convert my backup light installation to four stop/tail lights with halogen backup lights behind the grill. Each light has two bulbs, one directional and one distance. Here is the the original factory setup without backup lights, the first setup (as was a factory option in 1960) and the final installation.
The last picture is a night shot of the engine with 24 LED lights, activated by a contact switch when the hood is opened.
After starting the engine and setting the timing, I balanced the dual carburetors with this home-made low cost balancing tool. The carb that is pulling too much will suck the water out of one bottle into the next, but not enough to suck it into the engine.
